Traditional Indian Bridal Jewelry
There is no spark brighter than the one in the eyes of a bride, however, a tasteful collection of jewelry only adds to it. Since bridal jewelry is one of the major investments in a wedding, it is considered wise to know the basics of what one is purchasing.
From toe rings to maang tika and jhumar for the hair, each piece of jewelry should be designed keeping the delicacy of the appearance of the bride in mind and not to make her feel uncomfortable for the hours long ceremony of Indian marriage.
The Bride's earrings should be long and incase of heavy Meena/Polki diamond ear pieces or Magar Choudanies long enough to touch the shoulders, Balati or Sahara should be used to take the load off from the ear lobe.
Nath for the nose is a very essential part of bridal jewelry. It can be of any diameter suitable to the bride's face and its shape. From a simple gold wire loop with a couple of large pearls and ruby beads, one can go on to selecting diamond studded loops complimented by cut emeralds and rubies intricately designed and set. One must however keep in mind that the nose piece is to add to the facial beauty and not make the face look cluttered.
It is advisable to keep the neckline of the blouse low if one is planning to wear several neck pieces like a Rani Haar, Jadau(Chuni Moti) necklace or a Sita Rami along with a few glittery chains or the Guluband or Dog Collar. The Guluband, however, is recommended only to brides with slim long necks.
Since ivory bangles (Kara Set) is a must with Kilichiries for north Indian brides, a broad gold/white gold kara jodi set with stones is what I recommend for the wrists as they cover most of the arms.
The jewelry must compliment the attire worn by the bride. It should adorn her suitably for her special day without taking away the attention from the bride herself or over decking her.
From head to toe, all pieces of jewelry must co-ordinate amongst themselves. One cannot have a heavy diamond or ruby diamond necklace with let us say, Meena ear pieces or vice versa. It should either be all diamond or colored stone diamond jewelry or all Meena jewelry. Choice of metal is also important. White gold and yellow gold mix up should be avoided.
Very heavy dresses, saris, lehengas with heavily embroidered dupatta tend to take away the attention from intricate jewel pieces. Therefore, one must maintain a subtle combination of the two.
I always ask the bride?s family to provide me with a piece of the material of the bridal dress, so that complimenting stones can be selected for the jewelry. Similarly, one must make it a point to know whether white (rare) or golden salma or zari is being used in the zardosi work of lehenga/dupatta or sari. Incase large or many Swarovski Crystals are being used in the dress(as is prevalent at present) I prefer to use metal focusing jewelry, mainly in gold with few colored stones or diamonds for the jewelry to standout and not merge with the outfit. The focus however should remain in making the bride look elegant and beautiful.